Problems by a Dude Named Joe

Named after Joe Brown, Joe's Arete, is possibly the most climbed problem in Staffordshire. It's graded 5+ on the Font scale which is somewhere around v2 for us Yanks. This is a prime example of gritstone balance. It's really reachy to the point on the first few goes it doesn't seem possible at all, especially under 6 foot. On the day the picture below was taken several people I was with climbed v5 problems faster than Joe's Arete.  Problems like this make you think through the little intricacies of your movement from foot placement to the tiny dimples you are palming off your left hand with. It's by no means the most powerful or hardest moves at The Roaches but it's simple brilliant when tied together to the top. Therein lies the greatness of Joe's Arete and many other problems. So instead of chasing grades this weekend chase  those brilliant 3 star  problems that you'll remember for years to come.

 Orion stretching out for the balancing act finish of Joe's Arete (circa 2008)