7 Stitches

Nursing a nice gash on the back of my finger I'm relegated to climbing porn. Campus hard!

Who am I?

Ever been climbing with this guy? I feel like I've seen him and his side kick out crushing granite in the Northwest. First person with the answer gets a hot cup of steam and a free Me Climb Pretty t-shirt if we ever actually get around to making them. 

You can catch the full series of climber X at http://cghub.com/images/view/295586/

Good spot Sam S. 

Spotted in Gold Bar

Recover Like an Olympia

In the world of old man climbing there is no better friend than the post crush IPA and ice bath for the hands. You take that, put it on nuclear steroids in a Star Trek looking cylinder, subtract the hopps and you in end up with this...

Train like an Olympian

Lots of talk across the blogosphere about training these days. I've got my own routine that I've been perfecting with some of the MCPOD Team which we'll get to in a few days, but here a short video on the new regime of possibly the greatest Olympian of all time.

"Insanely difficult form of rock climbing called BOULDERING"

If Brian Williams says it's insanely difficult who am I too argue. It's a bit ironic that he chose that as his segue for a story about a 5th grader that dominates the sport. It seems kin to calling a perfect game in bowling Mt Everest and then flashing the stats on all the Joe Average Bowlers that put down 3 hundo a year, but whatever he's the pro.(the number of amateurs that roll perfect every year is so high that I would challenge that bowling is a sport). More good press for climbering and pretty cool watching Ashima climb with old man prowess. (Side note - It's not OK to cut your bangs to look like your 5th grade prodigy's bang Obi)

Visit msnbc.com for breaking news, world news, and news about the economy

Hot Virgin Bouldering

A little mental vacation to the islands for those of you in the Northwest enjoying this quality 50 degree and rainy June summer day.

Alpine Lake Iceberg

There was a short blurb in Urban Climber(yes I read the tabloids) this week about Leavenworth as a destination. The picture by Steven Gnam(his blog is worth a look) below along with another of Steve Dimmit on Pimpsqueak were part of the article. Anyone been on this or know where it's at?

May the Fourth Be With You

What better way to celebrate May the Fourth Be With You and Cinco de Derby than a few quality days in Leavenworth. This perfect storm of holidays also happened to coincide with my first trip to Mountain Home, which I have to say was pretty great. Lots of good quality problems in all ranges and a total change of scenery from Icicle. The problem of the day there for me was the low ball V4, Barn Door Arete. A great mix of core tension and a lot of figuring out what is going to work for you. It’s fat guy bouldering at its best which is why it’s right in my wheelhaus, in fact I will claim that I own that wheelhaus. Other notables for next time would be getting down to the South Seas as well as Darth Maul, which saw some good sends but wasn’t in the cards for me. “It’s a bloody hard V4” - Blue

We also made a short stop at Geronimo, the now famous Jessica Campbell problem from Western Gold.(If you haven’t seen this yet you should download it. There are some slow sections but overall it’s quality boulder porn in our backyard) Blue and Gabe both made quick work of it which is impressive to see(didn’t get a single vid of the sends but again Western Gold if you fancy). I struggled on the start but finally found a way up to the high slopers and touched the second to last hold. It didn’t’ go but I this along with Obesity are my 2 top projects for 2012. A lackluster session at The Sword not being able to pull off the ground to start Off The Couch rounded out the day

Sunday started with a Seattle reunion breakfast at The Sleep Lady and ended with some low quality flailing on the new washed out boulders. In between we hit the Egg boulders like Tina Turner on a hung over Saturday in the 70s. Smokestack Lightning, The Weather Report, Jerry Garcia and a lot of warming up went down. The Weather Report is pretty sweet and a great fat guy problem at V3. I blew my tips on the start hold of JG which is to say I touch them a few times. Look for a video of JG going down like power windows later in the week. The washed out boulders are pretty sweet. The  V4/5 with a medium throw outside the Lion’s Den will be a good problem to come back too . The jump start V1 to its right is an instant fat guy 3 star classic with a nice shoulder move to a good top out.

Great weekend, great people, some not too bad weather and as much fat guy bouldering as this kid could handle. Maybe the only thing that kept me sane with the ladies out of town.  Now on to the pictures you ogling monkeys…

 

Leah on Darth Maul

Leah, On and off the top of Darth Maul

Blue, Barn Door Arete

Gabe, Geronimo

Leah, Geronimo

Leah, Joe's Arete (I think)

Blue making sure Jerry Garcia doesn't fall over.

Truc, Smokestack Lightning I

Truc, Smokestack Lightning II

 

Truc, Smokestack Lightning III

Truc, Smokestack Lightning IV

Cheeky Seattle Smack Down Top Out

Western Gold April 22nd

New film coming at the end of the month that looks to have some Northwestern granite showcased.

Spring is in the Air

The NW season is just around the corner so it's time to slim up, train like Amtrak and amped up for the Spring. A little something to kick start the week.

Is 2 years old, too young to start training?

I often wonder if my daughter will like climbing when she grows up. Will she become enthralled in soccer and never care about the sport that occupies my free time to obsession. How much can or should you push your children in a certain direction? Apparently there are no limits. I like to think V will one day out climb her old man, in fact I would imagine that won't be too hard by the time she is ready. I do however think that my wife would put a Viking axe in my forehead if I turn our basement into a Slavic training center next year like the chap in the video did.  I can't imagine this kind of work out at age 2 is good for your body but it's makes one hell of a video to start your Friday.

Baby V climbs V5 at age 9... months

By the looks of this photo you might think this was taken at SBP but we weren't fooled here at MCPOD. You can tell by the heavy chalk cloud and the dingy lighting this is Stone Gardens Ballard. That is just one strong baby getting her Sunday pull on... and we aren't talking diapers in this case.

And the Oscar for "Best Idea for a Humor Post" goes to Becca for "Have V get on a hold so we can show everyone how easy the grades are at SG"

Day also picked up "Best Tag in a Supporting Humor Post" for "Dave Kimber"  

Sam was nominated in 2 categories but failed to take home an Oscar this year.

“You’d have to be blind, deaf, and dumb not to know what you’re getting yourself into, so if there’s blame, blame yourself.”

Dear creator of the sit start 5.5: WTF? Seriously? Brilliant
PS: Unless you are an Ewok this was a waste of tape.
PSS: If you are an Ewok let me know I have always wanted to meet one.

Problems by a Dude Named Joe

Named after Joe Brown, Joe's Arete, is possibly the most climbed problem in Staffordshire. It's graded 5+ on the Font scale which is somewhere around v2 for us Yanks. This is a prime example of gritstone balance. It's really reachy to the point on the first few goes it doesn't seem possible at all, especially under 6 foot. On the day the picture below was taken several people I was with climbed v5 problems faster than Joe's Arete.  Problems like this make you think through the little intricacies of your movement from foot placement to the tiny dimples you are palming off your left hand with. It's by no means the most powerful or hardest moves at The Roaches but it's simple brilliant when tied together to the top. Therein lies the greatness of Joe's Arete and many other problems. So instead of chasing grades this weekend chase  those brilliant 3 star  problems that you'll remember for years to come.

 Orion stretching out for the balancing act finish of Joe's Arete (circa 2008)

Snowldering at Gold Bar (& the first feature length video)

When the friction is on sometimes you have to do battle with the snow to get your granite on. In a last minute attempt to make sure I got a day in January outside, Ben, Tank and I packed his sweet new not-so-mini truck up and headed out to Gold Bar last weekend. The road up to the top looked pretty dodgy so we opted for 5-Star & 5-Star Warm Up. It was a bit of a slog to get to the boulders with the creek at the 5 Star parking lot not crossable.

Even with the snow 5 Star has 3 or 4 great options that seemed to be pretty dry. We couldn't pad Green Padded Ass (oh the irony) out enough but Sobriosity was relatively dry. 5 Star Arete wasn't bad either although seeping in a few non crucial places. After a bit of frosty warm ups and a few goes on Sobriosity Ben sent it. I continure to struggle in the same spot but feel like I have everything but the crux dialed. The real gem of the day though was the hard v4 on 5 Star Warm Up. Not sure on the name so if you know it add it to the comments. It's good wihc some really crimpy moves to start traversing low and left to a great super awkward and shouldery stem move that takes you out on a pair of Dolly Partons. Neither of of us got it this go round but I think fresh it will go. It's not a frequently climbed boulder but well worth a stop(and easier to find) in the winter.

Me Climb Pretty One Day steps deep into the video scene with our first mini short. It's basically everything a bouldering video should be minus the bikinis.

Me contemplating a new line called "Wet Fat Ass"

Walking up to the Warm Up boulder through a mini creek

Creek Crossing Guard

Anyone been on this boulder up from the Warm Up?

v4 on the Warm Up

Tank Love Snow

Green Padded Ass, Wet Fat Asses older brother

Life On Hold Trailer 2

Must have one free day to crush outside soon...

"You can't kill the Rooster. You might can fuck him up a little sometimes, but you can't kill him."

Late last week there was a Rooster sighting at Stone Gardens OG. Please note the gloves hanging oh so causally off the belt, which MCPOD highlighted as a big trend in 2012. Also noteworthy is the Rooster-esque mad ring flexdown while talking to an unsuspecting hen in the area.

Photo Credit (Peg Leg)

Trendspotting 2012

Making bold predictions is what we are all about at MCPOD as you probably already know. We thought we should kick the year off with some gems that we think are gonna be hotter than Newt Gingrich at a Mormon bar-b-que in South Carolina in the middle of July. Look for these trends at a crag or gym near you in 2012

Spandex is not only back it's here to stay as spotted by Todd on a recent trip to Stone Gardens OG.

Rad climbing gloves & vests. Not only matching man/boy vests but also hard core weight vests. You have seen "The Rooster" rock them now look for the trend to explode.

Ranger cans are back and huge in the outdoors in 2012. Don't litter lest you deal with Ranger Todd, and he don't take shit from no one.

And last but not least a growing trend we think will be huge amoung female climbers this year. Long, ponytail-less locks as spotted below at Stone Gardens OG on Tuesday. That's right gents no more buns, ponytails, or three man weaves just au natural flowing and blowing in the wind manes.

(Photo Credit: Owen Lars)

Giant Dreams, Midget Abilities

Stuff that needs to get done this year but won't if I sit on my fat arse...

• Climb outside every month in 2012 Tank
• Gold Bar - Water, Obesity, Sobriosity
• Leavenworth - Cruise Control, Labyrinth Area
• Squamish - Easy In An Easy Chair (Just getting up to Squish could be a victory with the mini Viking) 
• Invent a helium vest that reduces body weight by 30% making v8 a warm up
• Never wear spandex to the gym (outdoors may be allowed in certain situations)
• Get a picture of "The Rooster" and is partner in their vests (free MCPOD t-shirt to anyone that submits a good one)
• Get chalk bag back from Ben
• Make t-shirts for the person mentioned above
• Do 10  pull ups wearing mini Viking
• Continue "Tank Top Techno Tamil Tiger Training Tuesdays"
• Take a couple of Brits on an epic bouldering adventure over the summer
• Drink good beer apres boulder (Rainier is reserved for during bouldering only this year)
• Put up a slew of rad V1s 
• Climb with Nate and Micah
• Get in 1 day in Sweden
• Add 5 problems to the list for 2012
•  Grow the blog readership large enough to support not only a Taco Bell sponsorship but one other. Preferably a libation creation company that uses hops.

Stay rad Pac Northleft