Friday, December 30, 2011

Gold Bar Access

Just a reminder that if aren't part of WCC you are probably going to get fined by the climbing Gestapo the next time you go to Gold Bar. In all seriousness though join it's a good organization and they have done a lot to advance access in the Pacific Northleft.

http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/goldbar.htm

In other related news I've been dreaming of going back to Albarracin, Spain today. Talking broken ankles at the gym made me realize I still have a project there that needs to be finish. Below is one of the Frenchies we climbed with that was stronger than the foot cheese smell in bathroom 3 at Stone Gardens today. If you're looking for a destination this should be top of your list.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Look Russ no tan lines.

As the holidays hit you might be lacking in ideas for your gift giving pleasure. We at MCPOD would like to make some recommendations that you can pass on to your  loved ones as well as some ideas for you to give because, let's face it a new chalk purse isn't all that fun if you aren't a climber. On with the list...

Things that will make your significant climbing others religious holiday of your choosing at the end of December extra special:
Things to get the understanding non rock addicted significant other to make the religious holiday of their choosing at the end of December special:
In the event that you are in the dog house with no end in site and no possible reprieve of a climbing weekend click this link and plan to drop at least $100. One way or another you are guaranteed a weekend of climbing or potentially at home.


Merry religious holiday of your choosing. My name's Mary. No Shit?
MCPOD

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

“Like all of my friends, she's a lousy judge of character.”

Last weekend a gaggle of us headed out to Gold Bar for some fun in the friction friendly cold. The theme for the day was getting shutdown on the usual suspects, Obesity and Danny Devito. Obesity is dialed just have to figure out the last throw.(Ben did it again because he is a dick... still) Watched Blue send the direct by skipping about 3 holds that we had tried using back in Nov. That gets the Attends sponsored "Peanut Butter Paste Pants Old Man Send of the Day" award.

One other noteworthy problem was Leah's new gem "Deet Teets" which is just up from the warm up boulders by camp 4. A nice little gem that's begging for a lower start but probably goes v2/3 if you do it with wet foot holds which is nice.

Leah showing everyone how "Deets Teets" is done

Becca on Deet Teets

 Anyone done anything on this boulder?

Statically Blue Obesity

Day working Obesity

Becca getting down with Danny Devito

Monday, December 5, 2011

Life On Hold

The chaps across the pond are at it again with another trailer "Life On Hold", this time on the grit. They also updated their website, which was much needed, over to a .com

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Saturday, November 26, 2011

"You can't always send what you want, but if you try sometimes you just might find you send what ya need"

There were a lot of things to be gleaned from the comp at Stone Gardens last weekend. The first and most important is that the old man division is not a bunch of blue hair old timers on their last leg. The top geezer would have place 11th in the Open division and was almost 700 points ahead of second, Statistically speaking I achieved 2 of 3 of my goals coming up with a top 10 finish.

The comp went something like this... Arrive early and hear the rules blah blah blah and then the comp gets started. Never having climbed in one of these 3 ring circus's I was pretty keen to sit back and watch. I had some help from Liam who was the only other person I knew and was climbing in the advanced division. (Congrats on finishing in the $)

I came out slow doing a few 200 point problems and looking at a lot of 5 and 6 hundo problems. I honed in on  400 and 500 pointers on the wave wall that didn't look bad. Most everyone was eager to jump on stuff but losing a point for every attempt led me to what I would think was a bit wiser approach. I watched. And there you have the basis of my whole strategy. Go slow climb hard and be smarter. After pulling beta on the 2 pretty straight forward problems I flashed them both. Bingo I'm off and running and things look pretty good. (Side note Ben could not flash these on Monday night which can only mean that I am stronger than him)

I went up to the front wall next pulling a second go of a 495 problem after foot dabbing onto another route like a bouldering idiot. No worries though I spied a very granite-esque crimper route in the high 5s that several old geezers had fallen off. I burned 3 goes on it falling off the top move each time. I decided to "save it for later" and moved into the cave room by the ropes. I found the easiest 600 pointer that started with a short dyno and got it on the "jumping Jack flash" attempt. (Big props to coach Sam for the encouragement on this problem. Unfortunately Coach Ben was at a Barbara Streisand concert in Canada and couldn't attend or maybe I would have done better. Glad you finally got to see Babs though buddy)

Basically from here things fell apart. I couldn't send the 600 pointer that should have gone on the 45 degree up front and after 3 burns on it didn't have the juice to finish the 400 either. The highlight of the last hour was watching this guy blow the last hold of the 600 pointer and go flying over Liam and I spotting. Only a highlight because the guy was fine albeit a little shakin.  I ran out of juice in the the last hour and got stuck with one of my earlier 290 scores. Later looking at it I would have needed to replace it with a 600 and added something big or at least all 600s. Apparently the sweet spot for old man climbing is V6ish.

Who knew there were a whole slew of Blues's out there. A comp climber I am not but, I did have fun and get a moderately cool design printed on a shitty tee shirt(seriously the neck is a size bigger than the shirt SG, next year no cutting corners) oh and this beautiful sticker...

Gratuitous promo(Mammut feel free to send me one of those sweet chalk purses for review at a later date)

Some silliness from the finals below in the video. I was going to watch them but drank beer instead because that's how old men roll.